DAY 71: SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA FOR NON-CAMINO TREKKERS

Tuesday, June 24 (Santiago de Compostela, Spain) – Santiago de Compostela is the capital of Galicia, the northwest region of Spain, and it is mainly known for one thing:  The Camino de Santiago or the Way of Saint James.  This 500-mile journey is done on foot in one of a few routes either via France or Portugal, but the common finish line is in Santiago.  The average length of time it takes to complete is five weeks, so the adrenaline in the air just past the end point is tangible.  People walk by with backpacks, trekking poles, hiking boots slung over their shoulders, bandages on their feet, and huge smiles on their tired faces.  It is incredible to see people from all parts of the world coming together to celebrate their common victory. 

For me, it was amazing to see all these active people who made a goal and stuck with it.  But it also made me feel a bit of marathon-watcher syndrome.  In other words, I am the onlooker and felt lazy or unworthy of being in Santiago because I did not participate in the walk.  Of course that isn’t true, and there are a decent amount of things to do for those of us not icing our knees (mainly involving food!).  

Unfortunately, I happened to be in town during a major (apparently common) thunderstorm on day #1 and a local holiday on day #2 where some sites were closed.  So I didn’t get the full Santiago experience and don’t have too many recommendations.  I’ll keep it short:

The old city is where the action is in Santiago.  From small cafes and shops to bustling streets filled with pulperias and restaurants with the freshest fish in Spain, there is a lot packed into a small area of the city.

There is one street in the old town that is always crowded – Rúa do Franco.  This is where you will find some of the best restaurants in town, known for their fresh seafood and in particular the ‘pulpo a la feria’, a classic Galician octopus dish.  As you walk down the street, tanks of sea creatures will try to lure you in, and when you pick one, you won’t be disappointed.  TIP:  In Galicia, it is customary to receive a free tapa with your drink (like in Granada and Nerja).  So you can get by on a budget and still enjoy the local food and drink!

The city of Santiago is very proud of their cathedral, and it is the first site anyone will direct you to.  For me, this 1800th cathedral didn’t particularly impress me, but entry is free and it is certainly worth walking through.  I think the reason it is so popular is because of the connotation with the Camino as it is the burial place of Saint James himself.

There is a fresh food market that was closed because of the holiday, but I had really wanted to go and recommend it to visitors.  Apparently in the early morning you can see chefs from different restaurants bidding on the fresh catch of the day.  With the reputation of Galicia having the best fish in all of Spain, I’m sure the competition is high for each restaurant to boast the best of the best fish.

Octopus for the famous pulpo a la feria dish

And finally, there are quiet a few shops that sell edible souvenirs in Santiago.  From Galician wine and local liquors to massive chocolate bars, Tartas de Santiago (Saint James almond cakes) and the breast-shaped (and named) Tetilla cheese, people in this region are proud of their local specialties and are more than willing to give you a taste of everything – whether or not you decide to make a purchase.  (Click here to read more about What to eat in Galicia, Spain)