Friday, June 6 (Istanbul) - Throughout my travels, I have been extremely lucky with weather.  Other than a 10-minute rain and hailstorm in Ireland and short-lived downpour in Italy, I have had sunshine just about every day.  Then I arrived in Istanbul and the rain began.  I was originally going to take a trip over to the Asian side of Istanbul, but with the rain and choppy water, I felt that was not the best idea.  But there are a lot of things to do when it rains in this city, so here are my recommendations.  (I didn’t have time to do all of them, but they were all recommended!)

The Blue Mosque and Aga Sofya are both indoor sites, so those are good bets and must-sees, as long as you didn’t do them already.  There is a line at Aga Sofya because there is an admission fee (the Blue Mosque is free and no line) so keep that in mind if you are umbrella-less.  Fore more tips about these places and others, read this post about what to do in Istanbul.

I really enjoyed Istanbul Modern Art Museum, especially their permanent exhibit “Past and Future” which looks at the evolution of contemporary and modern art in Turkey since its inception.  Not all of the pieces are what you would consider ‘modern art’ because it is more of a stroll through Turkish art history, so there is definitely something for everyone. 

One of their current exhibitions is a photography collection called “On the Road:  Images of Turkey from the Nar Photos Archive” that documents current events in Turkey – political, social, lifestyle – in unique, thought-provoking ways.  I wasn’t allowed to take any photos in that room, but some of the prints were extremely powerful.

Some other museums to check out (that I would have visited with more time) include the Istanbul Archeology Museum and the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum.

You may remember my post about my first Hamam experience in Morocco… well, I tried again on this rainy day in Istanbul.  Tali and I were recommended a place by a woman who worked at the café where we had breakfast, so we went to check it out.  Maybe we should have known by the dead cockroach on the floor, but it wasn’t the nicest of places.  Long story short, we sat in a hot, humid room with a bunch of men and women – including one towel-covered gentleman who was getting a soapy bath – for about 20 minutes before deciding to bail.  We will try again in a TripAdvisor-approved Hamam in either Cappadocia or Antalya.  BUT, there are tons of reputable, beautiful spas to get a Hamam treatment in Istanbul, and it is the perfect thing to do on a rainy day.  Just do your homework a little better than we did!

Istanbul – particularly the Taksim area – is filled with live music!  When the weather is dreary and you don’t want to sit outside, live music is a great reason to go inside and have fun.  Modern Turkish rock is really great and regardless of the genre, who doesn’t love a man with a guitar?

Wednesday, May 14 (Cadiz) – After two weeks of intense, nonstop traveling across 9 cities in Andalusia, I was ready to make #10 all about the beach.  Multiple people had suggested I go to Cadiz – the town known for beaches and happy, friendly Spaniards – so sign me up!  

I found an Airbnb host who lives close to the bus station and the beach, so I was set… or so I thought.  When I arrived (from Sevilla by way of a day trip to Jerez de la Frontera) everything was fine.  My host Yolanda and I got along off the bat and spoke entirely in Spanish.  My room was big and comfortable, and I was shown a map of how close we are to Playa de la Caleta (the beach that is famous for a the scene in James Bond “Die Another Day” when Halle Berry emerges in an orange bikini).

The next morning I woke up excited for the beach, but as I went to the kitchen for the breakfast part of my “AirbnB”, I noticed the shutters were slamming against the window and the trees outside seemed to be bending over backwards.  But what’s better than a bit of a breeze at the beach on a hot Andalusian day?  So I walked to the beach, lay down to get comfortable, and all of a sudden a huge gust of wind carried half the beach’s sand and dropped it on top of me.  And it hurt.  Again and again, the wind would blow what felt like little needles of sand all over my face and body.  Finally I couldn’t take it anymore and 10 minutes later, I left.

After spending the day walking around the city, trying to keep my hair from blowing in my eyes and hopping on a free “Pancho Tour”, I was invited by my host’s roommate Ryan to go out with him and some of his friends.  They all teach English (an extremely common story, I’m learning), and that night, they were headed to the bar El Pelicano for an ‘intercambio’ (when native Spanish and English speakers come together to practice each other's languages).  So I joined, and as a native English speaker and a New Yorker, I became a bit of a celebrity and got to do a lot of practicing my Spanish while helping Spanish speakers with their English! 

Later that night we went to Cambalache, a jazz bar that had a band playing.  But it wasn’t just a regular jazz show, it was – get this – karaoke!  The band would play your preferred song live, and you get up and sing along.  Way better than those ridiculous music videos at karaoke bars in the States… (no, I didn’t sing .. this time).

Friday, May 9 (Sevilla) - The Feria de Abril (April Fair) in Sevilla is the event of the year.  A week-long fest of eating tapas, drinking rebujitos, and dancing Sevillianas, with parades of horses and people dressed to the nines in traditional flamenco attire.  When I started to think seriously about taking this 3-month journey, I used Feria as an anchor and planned everything else around it.  

A little about Feria... back in 1847 the festival started as a livestock fair, but soon evolved into a celebration for everyone.  Imagine a massive fairgrounds (like Randall's Island in NY when it holds events) split into two parts.  The main part is where you can find the casetas - the enclosed tents that are individually decorated and privately owned by families and organizations.  In these casetas, the front room has tables for everyone to eat and drink, but often the tables get pushed aside in the evenings for dancing.  The back room is a bar where people can order tapas and drinks - the traditional drink being the "rebujito" which is a mix of manzanilla (local sherry) and 7-Up.

The thing about Feria.... if you aren't invited into a caseta, your options are limited.  Sure, you can walk around the streets, watch the impromptu flamenco dancing (actually "Sevilliana" dancing), and maybe find a public caseta for food and drink, but the fun is really started when you are inside.  When I arrived to Feria for the first time, I was walking around with my camera, taking in the amazing atmosphere, and I met some locals who I immediately hit it off with.  The next thing I knew, I had a rebujito in one hand and a plate of paella in the other, and I was on the inside - a part of the family.  I am so lucky to have met these amazing people and can't wait to come back for Feria next year!

The other side of Feria is "La Calle del Inferno" (Hell Road) which is an absolutely massive amusement park filled with not just one but two or more of all the rides and games you can imagine.  That means two giant ferris wheels lighting up the sky at night and looking over the entire Feria.  And lots of churros!!  What I found interesting was that there were booths set up alongside the fair games (like shooting water at a target to make a stuffed animal go to the top first...) where there were fake people crushing grapes and then real people serving vino anejo.

Granada, the history-rich university town, and the home of the world-famous Alhambra.  I immediately felt at home in this city and loved its atmosphere (and food).  While it is hard (if not impossible) to do it all in one day, I put together a packed itinerary suggesting what to do in Granada.

**Going to the Alhambra is a priority in Granada and the itinerary below will have to be modified based on what time your entry is for.

Morning:  Visit the Alhambra - get your tickets in advance and try to get entry into the 8:30AM time slot so you beat the crowds and the heat.  Then enjoy breakfast away from the main square where the prices are extreme

Late morning/early afternoon:  Depending on when you visit the Alhambra, you may be able to take a free Feel the City tour at 10:30AM to get an overview of the history, layout and legends of Granada

Then enjoy a cold cervesa and some tapas followed by walking around the city center and checking out some of the shops before siesta

Afternoon: While the residents sleep their siesta, it is the perfect time to grab an ice cream (or a horchata with a pionono) and go for a walk in the Parque Federico Garcia Lorca

Early evening:  Catch a flamenco show – even if it is geared towards tourists, it is generally a good introduction to the art form and the performers will put on an incredible show

Evening:  Go tapa-hopping at bars around the Albayzin and the city center by the Cathedral.  The free tapas will be different each time you order a drink so the variety and volume may fill you up, otherwise order another tapa or two.  TIP:  Try the moussaka at Meridional and the salmon with avocado tapa at Bodegas Castaneda.

(Saturday, May 3) – I am loving Malaga, in part because of my wonderful hosts, but in part because of the character of the city.  After a day of exploration – of both the must-see sites and the local streets, beaches and shops – I can say I am a fan of this region.  You can certainly see all the key sites in one day (but I recommend spending two nights to fully capture the atmosphere).  TIP:  For my suggested itinerary below, I highly recommend sneakers since there is a lot of climbing up slippery rocks involved.

Pan con tomate for breakfast – a Spanish specialty where you rub a raw garlic clove on a piece of toast, followed by rubbing a tomato on top, drizzling a bit of olive oil, and then sprinkling on some salt.  Have some fruit and yogurt on the side and you are ready for the day.  Delicious! 

Head into the city center and pay 5 Euro to enter the cathedral.  It is absolutely stunning in its intricacy, detail and sheer size.


Looking at the cathedral from outside, you will notice that one of the towers (the south tower) is unfinished and doesn't match its counterpart.  This is because during construction, the funds were reallocated to the war to help the (now) US gain its independence from British rule, and the tower was never completed.  So locals now refer to the uneven cathedral as "La Manquita" or the one-armed woman!

Then walk down the street to the Alcazaba, a well-preserved Moorish fortress built in the early 11th century, and the most popular attraction in Malaga. TIP:  At the entrance to the Alcazaba, I suggest you buy the double ticket that includes admission for the Castillo de Gibralfaro as well, to save time.  Enjoy exploring and take your time.  Be sure to go off in different directions, climb all the different staircases, and see as many different views of the city of Malaga that you can (they all deserve photos).

After the Alcazaba, make a sharp left turn and start your ascent to El Castillo de Gibralfaro, or the Gibralfaro Castle.  Depending on if you stop to rest up the steep climb, expect the journey to take 15-25 minutes – and if nothing else, be sure to stop on the main landing close to the top for photographs.  When I got to the castle, I was able to cut the line of people who had just gotten off a tour bus because I had pre-purchased my ticket along with my ticket to the Alcazaba.  I went to the café to relax and have an ice cream, and then I strolled around the castle to take pictures and soak in the sun (and shade).

After the castle, walk down the hill to return to the city center and explore the small cobblestone roads, bustling shops and cafes.  Visit the Picasso Museum, a small exhibition showcasing pieces of his work from different decades and styles.  (Picasso is from Malaga!).  The museum doesn’t have his famous works because those are in larger museums and galleries worldwide, but it is a good representation of his evolution.  


TIP:  take a look at the ancient ruins in the basement level of the museum!

You’ve probably worked up quite an appetite so time to enjoy some tapas!  You can tell which restaurants are popular by the crowds so pick one and munch on some tapas and beer or sangria (often cheaper than water).  

Note: El Pimpi is a very popular/famous restaurant so swing by for a drink or bite, or just to take a look.  

For my lunch, I enjoyed a tapas-sized paella and patatas bravas, along with a sparkling water for about 5 Euros.

Since the sun doesn’t seem to go down until around 10PM, it is easy to fit a lot into a single day, especially if you have limited time in Malaga.  Walk around Calle Lario to do a little shopping and/or make your way to the beach to soak in the sun.  I walked past a few massive cruise ships and docked myself on Malagueta beach for a little while to rest my feet.

It is customary to start dinner around 9 or 10PM but there will generally be people out enjoying something to eat or drink at all hours.  I was taken to what my Airbnb host family says is the restaurant with the best tapas in Malaga, which was delicious!  We sat at the bar when you first walk in where there are different types of meats and foods waiting to be ordered and thrown on the grill.  Interesting fact:  when you order a beer at this restaurant (or many others), you will get a tiny glass (by American standards) and you won’t have a choice of a type of beer.  Many restaurants only have one beer on tap, and the small glass is because it can get so hot in Andalucia that the beer would get warm before you could finish it, so this way you can drink a cold beer and then order another fresh one afterwards.

In Malaga, there are some nightclubs but the main form of nightlife is bar-hopping.  My hosts took me to a bunch of different bars to get a feel for the city – including one that was tucked away and known for its natural apple cider (I was not a fan of the sour flavor, but watching the bartender do his special pour was worth it!).  

The bartender holds the glass by his leg in one hand, and without looking pours the cider into the glass from above his head with the other hand!

(Friday, May 2) – I tend to be a big planner when it comes to travel.  It’s not that I need every moment planned out; it is more that I don’t want to leave a place and then find out a week later that I missed something because I hadn’t done my homework.  I also like to know where I am going next and that I have a place to stay.  But on this trip, part of “Stacy taking flight” is that I want to be more flexible, take things as they come, and be okay with being a bit spontaneous or changing plans.  So I decided to switch up my Spain itinerary a bit after learning the easiest way to get from city to city wasn’t necessarily what I had thought.  However, this put me in a tough position in terms of where to stay. 

I found myself in Marbella on Thursday without having a place to stay for the next few nights.  I had planned to go on a day trip to Ronda on Friday and then find a hostel or cheaper hotel in Malaga for the weekend, but everything was completely booked.  So, I ended up spending a night in Ronda (which was great) and then taking a big risk in trying something brand new for the Saturday and Sunday in Malaga:  Airbnb. 

I have a few friends who have tried this service where people who have an extra bedroom (or an empty house) can rent it out to travelers, and they have had positive experiences.  But as a solo female in a new country, I was very hesitant.  Also, many hosts don’t actually live in the house.  They have an extra house that they turn into a mini hostel and rent out constantly - not really what I was hoping for.  So after being unsuccessful with Hostelworld and hotel sites, I finally decided I would Airbnb it in Malaga.  BEST DECISION EVER!

I found myself staying in an extra bedroom in the home of Eugenia, her husband Nacho and their dog Sacha.  They also had a friend, Romi, in town.  As I arrived I was greeted like family with double cheek kisses and a cold beer.  While I thought I would drop off my stuff and head into the city center to explore on my own (the only downfall of staying with them is that they live a good 30-40 minute walk from the center, but I could also take a cab or bus), I ended up staying in their home chatting (in Spanish!) for hours.  It was really great and before I knew it, it was about 8PM and I was starving.  The four of us went into the city center together and they took me to what they said is the best tapas spot in all of Malaga - Cortijo de Pepe.

Then we hopped around from bar to bar while they graciously showed me different sites along the way.  Staying with them was such a great way to get to know the city and the people and practice Spanish! Seriously, I am so happy that I was able to communicate and understand with only minimal – and I mean minimal – English.

I am now much more open to using Airbnb in the future (and won’t freak out if I don’t see any hostels or hotels available in a place that I want to visit).  There are just a few tips I have for anyone looking to try it out.

Friday, April 18 (Thurles, Ireland) - A day into my stay at the Crossogue Equestrian Center in Thurles, Ireland, I was invited to join some locals and their guests for a ‘truly authentic Irish experience’ that I would not be able to see anywhere else.  Sign me up!  So I squeezed into a car with six other people, and off we went to Jim of the Mills, someone's home that operates as a pub one night per week.

The right side of the house has a bar with one beer on tap:  Guinness (finally had my first one in Ireland!) and the left side of the house has a room small room packed with chairs and an open fireplace.  As guests trickled in, the true fun began.  It started with about six older men and women, each with a different instrument jamming along to traditional Irish songs.  One instrument would start and the rest would follow, building upon the melody with an orchestra of sounds.  Before I knew it, the room was packed with adults and children of all ages, and I’d say 75% of them arrived with an instrument in hand or a voice ready to sing.  From accordions to harps, guitars and banjoes to flutes, the instruments and singing voices came together in harmony and miraculously knew when to fade out. 

At around 11:30PM, a tray of black pudding on soda bread was passed around to the musicians and guests (looked and tasted sort of like a falafel!) as the music continued deep into the morning hours.  I then Googled what black pudding is, and (sorry mom) it is definitely NOT kosher!

Traditional Irish music, especially in jam band style, is not very common, and I heard that there are only four authentic places in the country where you can experience it.  Even though it was a bit hard to wake up to ride the next morning, it was well worth it and I’m sure it will be one of the highlights of my whole trip.

Sorry for the poor quality of the video, but I wanted to try to capture the essence of what this night was all about: