Wednesday, June 25 (Vigo, Spain) – On another chilly, overcast day in Galicia (today, in Vigo), I realized I wouldn’t be able to do the boat ride to the Islas Cies which are known for their incredibly beautiful beaches, just off the coast of Vigo.  Being that Vigo isn’t a very touristy city, and it was the middle of the work week, there wasn’t an overwhelming amount of things to do, so I ventured into Casco Vello, the old city.

The old city is next to the port and is a small maze of cobblestone streets with a variety of cafes, bars and shops.  My favorite street in the area is Rua de Cesteria, where wicker products are weaved and sold.  Here you can get beautiful picnic baskets, rustic chairs or even sun hats.  It is a small street and easy to miss, so make it a priority!

What I love about this old city is that it is well inhabited and isn’t purely an attraction.  In fact, walking down one street I saw a golden retriever on a second story balcony staring out between the terrace bars.  All of a sudden he started jumping back and forth and ran back into the house, and I looked at where he had been staring and realized his owner had come back from an errand and the dog was excited for his homecoming.  This simple moment was nice and reminded me that real people are living real lives here, not just crazy people like me who come to take a peek.  (It also made me miss my – I mean my aunt’s – dogs).

There another notable street in the old town that is nicknamed the Oyster Street because it is where you can go to get fresh oysters.  In fact you can buy them at a kiosk and then enjoy them at any restaurant you choose.  I sat down at one restaurant and noticed the menu was mainly large portions for sharing.  But I expressed my concern and the waiter brought over a tapas menu so I could taste a few small plates!  Apparently many restaurants have ‘secret’ tapas menus that only come out when asked for (because the items are cheaper).  I had three Galician classics that were all very tasty.  (See more in my post about what to eat in Galicia, Spain)

In the old town is a market where you can buy mainly fresh fish and meat (although you can also get some fruit, veggies, cheese, and flowers).  It was already later in the day when I walked in, so some of the booths had run out of food and closed down, but a few were still open.  I loved seeing all the unnamed varieties of fish and that to my surprise, most of the people selling the fish were women.  Turns out the husbands go fishing and then the wives sell the fish.  Interesting family business!

After my rendezvous in the old city, the weather was not improving and the one museum I visited was having a siesta and wasn’t open.  So I became determined to find a place to treat myself to a (much needed) manicure and pedicure.  Vigo was the first city where I noticed a large number of hair & nail salons, so I thought it would be easy to walk in and get a little pampering.  Nope.  Every place I found was filled with women getting primped.  Finally, I just picked one salon that looked the nicest and had the recognizable O.P.I. nail polish brand and I made an appointment for later in the afternoon.

I’ve heard some bad stories about people getting their nails done in different parts of Europe – it’s just not the same as home.  So I wasn’t expecting much but at the least I would have a pretty color on my nails and toes – and instant way to feel pretty and like a lady (especially after 2+ months of walking on my poor overused feet!).  Well, was I in for a surprise or what!?

I arrived for my 5:10 appointment and it didn’t start out too well.  I was waiting (with my feet turning into prunes in the water) for about half an hour before my pedicure began.  Eva was my nail specialist and from the moment she sat down, everything changed and I knew this would be a different kind of pedicure.  After 15 minutes, she was still on my first foot, meticulously shaping, filing and buffing each nail.  Then the exfoliation began and she would touch my heel (with gloves on) and then keep scrubbing until she was satisfied with the softness of my foot.  She took her time (too much time in NYC standards, but I had no plans and was loving it!) and we chatted in Spanish the whole time.  My toes and fingernails came out perfect and it was well worth the time and money spent!  My feet feel refreshed and ready to go site seeing for another three weeks (or months!).

Eva wouldn’t let me get the same color on my hands and feet because apparently that is ‘not cool’ in Spain, haha!  So I appreciated her looking out for me and I went with a complementary bright pink on the toes and subtle orange on my fingers.

After the appointment the salon was closing and Eva invited me out to get a beer with her and a friend!  Hours later we were still out at a local café having delicious food and drinks and my Spanish was improving by the minute (maybe that’s the beer talking?).

The morals of today’s story are 1)  Markets are awesome  2) Sometimes you deserve to pamper yourself and 3) You never know where you will meet your next friend!

Tuesday, June 24 (Santiago de Compostela, Spain) – Santiago de Compostela is the capital of Galicia, the northwest region of Spain, and it is mainly known for one thing:  The Camino de Santiago or the Way of Saint James.  This 500-mile journey is done on foot in one of a few routes either via France or Portugal, but the common finish line is in Santiago.  The average length of time it takes to complete is five weeks, so the adrenaline in the air just past the end point is tangible.  People walk by with backpacks, trekking poles, hiking boots slung over their shoulders, bandages on their feet, and huge smiles on their tired faces.  It is incredible to see people from all parts of the world coming together to celebrate their common victory. 

For me, it was amazing to see all these active people who made a goal and stuck with it.  But it also made me feel a bit of marathon-watcher syndrome.  In other words, I am the onlooker and felt lazy or unworthy of being in Santiago because I did not participate in the walk.  Of course that isn’t true, and there are a decent amount of things to do for those of us not icing our knees (mainly involving food!).  

Unfortunately, I happened to be in town during a major (apparently common) thunderstorm on day #1 and a local holiday on day #2 where some sites were closed.  So I didn’t get the full Santiago experience and don’t have too many recommendations.  I’ll keep it short:

The old city is where the action is in Santiago.  From small cafes and shops to bustling streets filled with pulperias and restaurants with the freshest fish in Spain, there is a lot packed into a small area of the city.

There is one street in the old town that is always crowded – Rúa do Franco.  This is where you will find some of the best restaurants in town, known for their fresh seafood and in particular the ‘pulpo a la feria’, a classic Galician octopus dish.  As you walk down the street, tanks of sea creatures will try to lure you in, and when you pick one, you won’t be disappointed.  TIP:  In Galicia, it is customary to receive a free tapa with your drink (like in Granada and Nerja).  So you can get by on a budget and still enjoy the local food and drink!

The city of Santiago is very proud of their cathedral, and it is the first site anyone will direct you to.  For me, this 1800th cathedral didn’t particularly impress me, but entry is free and it is certainly worth walking through.  I think the reason it is so popular is because of the connotation with the Camino as it is the burial place of Saint James himself.

There is a fresh food market that was closed because of the holiday, but I had really wanted to go and recommend it to visitors.  Apparently in the early morning you can see chefs from different restaurants bidding on the fresh catch of the day.  With the reputation of Galicia having the best fish in all of Spain, I’m sure the competition is high for each restaurant to boast the best of the best fish.

And finally, there are quiet a few shops that sell edible souvenirs in Santiago.  From Galician wine and local liquors to massive chocolate bars, Tartas de Santiago (Saint James almond cakes) and the breast-shaped (and named) Tetilla cheese, people in this region are proud of their local specialties and are more than willing to give you a taste of everything – whether or not you decide to make a purchase.  (Click here to read more about What to eat in Galicia, Spain)